The honest answer is that a replacement car key can cost anywhere from modest to genuinely expensive, and the difference is almost entirely down to what kind of key your vehicle takes and whether you still have a working one.
This is what actually drives the price, so you can tell whether a quote you have been given is reasonable.
What decides the price
- The type of key. A plain mechanical blade with no electronics is the cheapest thing we cut. A transponder key adds programming. A remote key adds the buttons and the pairing. A smart or proximity fob for push-button start is the dearest, because the part itself costs more and the pairing sequence is longer.
- Whether a working key survives. This is the big one. Adding a spare alongside an existing key is quick. Creating a key when every original is lost means the vehicle has to be taken back to a state where it will accept a new key from scratch, and on some makes that includes a manufacturer security delay you simply have to wait out.
- The make and model. Some manufacturers make key data straightforward to obtain. Others lock it down, which means more time and more expensive equipment.
- Where and when. A booked job in daylight costs less than a 2am callout to a roadside.
- Whether anything is damaged. A key snapped in the barrel may also mean ignition repair on top of the key itself.
Auto locksmith versus dealership
A dealership can supply and code your key, and for some very new models they are the only option. For most vehicles on the road, an auto locksmith works out cheaper, and the gap widens once you account for what sits around the job.
The dealer needs the car at the dealership. With no key at all that means a tow, which is a cost on top of the key, plus a booking that is rarely same-day. A mobile auto locksmith comes to the vehicle and does the cutting and coding where it is parked, so there is no tow and no days without a car.
Motorcycles are their own case
Bike keys look simpler and often are, but the blanks are manufacturer specific and many bikes carry an immobiliser that has to be coded. Where it gets involved is when no key exists at all, because the cuts then have to be read directly off the ignition barrel. See motorcycle key cutting for how that works.
The cheapest key you will ever buy
It is the spare you cut while your original still works.
Cutting and coding a second key during a booked visit costs a fraction of creating one from nothing during an emergency callout, because none of the expensive parts of the job apply. If your vehicle came with one key, and plenty of second-hand cars and bikes do, that single key is the whole risk. Deal with it on a quiet Tuesday rather than at midnight in a car park.
Keep it somewhere other than the vehicle, which sounds obvious and is exactly where most spares end up.
How to get an accurate figure
Prices quoted online for other people are close to meaningless, because the same job on two different models can differ several times over. Call 0410 380 354 with three things and we will price it properly before we come out:
- Make, model and year
- Whether you still have a working key
- Whether you push a button to start, or turn a key
That is enough to tell you the price and roughly how long it will take, with no surprises when we arrive.